I was so disappointed with the fronts, I returned them to the manufacture and had flares fabricated from steel.
My first impression of the rears was how flimsy they looked, but the finished product is sound and very strong.
Step 1 The inner wheel arc (not the outer wing) comes in 2 halves. Remove outer half completely and discarded. Then replace it with a long sheet of steel. This needs to be wide enough to bridge the gap from the inner half of the arc to the back face of the outer wing.
Step 2 Mark and cut the outer wing skin, leaving about an inch of overlap, so that it can be folded inwards and welded to the new inner arch to create a complete enclosed archway. This retains the cars integrity and I believe is far superior to the method of fiber-glassing across from the inner half of the inner-arc to Sebring wing itself. (see photo, this is my car it was going to be red!)
Modified Arc Before arc fitted Standard Arc
(Pictures illustrates just how much is cut away from standard)
Step 3 This leaves 6 to 10 inches all around the arch as a bonding area for the new over wing. The Sebring wings comes with a wrap around edge for the door/pillar area, which I chose to remove as it narrowed the door/pillar gap too much. The over-wing was initially pop-riveted on to the steel under-arc and checked for alignment before being removed again for bonding. The rivets holes are used to align the wing back to the correct position and the rivets help pull the wing flat flat and squeeze out the bonding adhesive. There are some good bodywork adhesive/sealing compounds on the market, of which I choose a Teleflex version used for sealing boat panels (£7.00 a tube, I used about 2 tubes aside). This stuff is so good that once it sets you can remove the rivets if you like. I chose to countersink and leave the corner rivets in place for extra security.
Step 4 There is a small gap between the steel under-arch and the Sebring wing itself which was fiberglassed across to stop water and dirt getting in.
Step 5 I chose to use the Sebring in-fill valance, which after a few tries fitted far better by trimming and butting the joining faces to the rear wing flush, then fiber-glassing on the rear side for strength as opposed overlapping them and skimming across with filler.
GOOD LUCK!